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Jack Martin

Styling Professional located in California who specialises in silver hair. He works with Hollywood stars and Andie MacDowell.

What affordable item can't you live without?

I swear by a microfibre towel, or even a smooth cotton shirt to dry your hair. Many are unaware how much harm a standard towel can do, especially to lightened or dyed strands. This one small change can really reduce frizz and breakage. Another affordable staple is a broad-toothed comb, to use in the shower. It protects the hair while smoothing out tangles and helps keep the health of the hair shafts, especially after lightening.

What item or service justifies the extra cost?

A professional-grade heat styling tool – made with advanced materials, with precise heat settings. Lightened strands can become discolored or suffer heat stress without the right iron.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

At-home lightening. Social media makes it look easy, but the reality is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. There are cases where individuals melt their hair, break it off or end up with bands of colour that are nearly impossible to correct. I would also avoid long-term smoothing services on color-treated or grey hair. Such treatments are often overly harsh for delicate locks and can cause lasting harm or undesired tones.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Individuals choosing unsuitable formulas for their particular strand characteristics. A number of people misuse toning shampoo until their blonde or grey strands looks drab and lacking shine. Some depend excessively on strengthening conditioners and end up with rigid, fragile strands. The other major issue is using hot tools sans safeguard. When applying hot tools or dryers without a defensive spray or cream, – notably with color-treated strands – you’re going to see brassiness, lack of moisture and splitting.

Which solutions help with shedding?

Thinning requires a comprehensive strategy. Externally, minoxidil remains a top choice. I also recommend scalp formulas with active ingredients to boost blood flow and aid in hair growth. Applying a cleansing scalp wash often helps clear out buildup and allows products to perform better. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown notable improvements. They enhance overall health for hair benefits by correcting endocrine issues, tension and dietary insufficiencies.

In cases requiring advanced options, platelet-rich plasma treatments – where your own platelet-rich plasma is injected into the scalp – can be effective. That said, I always suggest seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Shedding may relate to internal factors, and it’s important to identify the source rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

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A Trichology Expert

Scalp and Hair Scientist and head of a renowned clinic clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

What’s your routine for trims and color?

My trims are every couple of months, but will trim off splits at home bi-weekly to keep my ends healthy, and have highlights done every eight weeks.

What affordable find is essential?

Building fibers are remarkably effective if you have areas of scalp visibility. The fibres cling electrostatically to your own hair, and it comes in a range of colors, making it almost invisible. It was my go-to post-pregnancy when I had noticeable thinning – and also presently during some considerable hair loss after having awful flu a few months ago. Since hair is non-vital, it’s the initial area to show decline when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a healthy, varied eating plan.

What justifies a higher investment?

In cases of hereditary hair loss in females, I’d say medicated treatments. For excessive daily hair shedding, AKA telogen effluvium (TE), buying an non-prescription item is fine, but for FPHL you really do need prescription-strength formulas to see the optimal outcomes. From my perspective, minoxidil combined with additional ingredients – such as balancing elements, inhibitors and/or calming components – works best.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It's ineffective. This idea originated from a limited 2015 research that compared the effects of 2% minoxidil to rosemary oil. A 2% strength minoxidil isn’t enough to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they provide similarly low results.

Additionally, excessive biotin. Few individuals have biotin insufficiency, so taking it is unlikely to do your hair any good, and it can affect thyroid test results.

Which error is most frequent?

In my view, we should rename "hair washing" to "scalp cleaning" – because the main goal of cleansing is to rid your scalp of old oils, dead skin cells, sweat and environmental pollution. Many individuals refrain from cleansing as they think it’s damaging to their locks, when in fact the reverse is correct – particularly with flaky scalp, which is aggravated by oil buildup. If oils are left on your scalp, they break down and become inflammatory.

Unfortunately, what your scalp needs and what your hair likes don’t always align, so it’s a balancing act. Provided you wash delicately and manage wet locks gently, it is unlikely to cause damage.

What solutions do you suggest for thinning?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. It has the most robust evidence behind it and tends to be most effective combined with additional ingredients. If you then want to try other things to support minoxidil’s effect, or you choose to avoid it or cannot tolerate it, you could try micro-needling (under professional care), and perhaps platelet-rich plasma or light treatments.

With telogen effluvium, investigation is key. Excessive daily shedding occurs in response to an internal factor. In some instances, the trigger is short-term – such as sickness, virus or emotional strain – and it will resolve on its own. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the most common being ferritin (stored iron), vitamin B12 and vitamin D deficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus