🔗 Share this article

Although recent appointments at Chanel and Dior sparked plenty of noise during the ongoing Paris fashion week, it was the inaugural presentation from Balenciaga that truly captivated the media spotlight. The show featured a stunning front-row presence: Meghan Markle, making her first European appearance in a three-year period.

On Saturday night in the French capital, the spectacle of other major houses – and even another high-profile guest – paled in comparison with the dramatic effect of the Balenciaga event.

The Duchess delivered significant star power to Balenciaga’s Paris show.

Until that moment, the general mood surrounding the designer's first show had been quite calm. Balenciaga is a venerated institution, and Piccioli is universally praised as a top-tier talent. Furthermore, he is cherished for his status as the kindest personality in the business. Many assumed that extravagant catwalk stunts had departed the brand's identity with the departure of the edgy designer Demna to another luxury house. But, even the nicest guys pull off unexpected moves, and the royal benediction greatly increased the level of hoopla.

He sees himself as an architect, creating forms that never touch the human form.

Notably, the central theme of what he called his manifesto, as he explained it backstage, was the empowerment of women. His initial inspiration was the revolutionary 1957 design by Balenciaga, a shape that sits proud of the body, neither amplifying nor limiting a woman’s curves. The designer explained that this design was a powerful manifestation of a evolving cultural mood that was shifting away from the post-war traditionalism towards the progressive 1960s. This was focused on female empowerment. It released women from the burden of garments that rest heavily on the physique and talk about their body. The sack dress enabled women to be free in space.”

The brand's legendary shapes were included in the presentation, such as this enveloping coat.

Apparel with independent structure are at the heart of the the brand's ethos. He compared this creative process to being an structural designer: creating structures that never make contact with the body, while continuously keeping in mind the people who will inhabit and move within them. “Cristóbal Balenciaga was deeply interested in the physique and with textiles, and with a additional component – the air between the two.”

First onto the catwalk was a fresh take of the iconic dress, elongated to an longline silhouette, accompanied by opera gloves – but also with wraparound bug-eye sunglasses that served as a direct nod to the apocalypse-chic of the previous designer's tenure.

Piccioli, who at his current age sports ornamental accessories and radiates an air of hippie-ish serenity, rejects the idea of seeing fashion as an ego battle. He states that it is more admirable for creatives to acknowledge each other’s abilities. The creative director noted that he was aiming for a harmonious balance between the couture roots of the fashion label, and its more recent streetwear era. Classic designs from the house were prominently featured in the show: a voluminous outerwear piece, this time in a vibrant poison green, and a trapeze dress in a powerful violet tone.

The archetype of Parisian style has become a lucrative industry. The American designer is an designer from the US, but he understands this aesthetic perfectly. Rider had a professional relationship with the renowned designer during her time leading the brand, and then worked for several years developing the classic label into a symbol of approachable fashion. Now back at Céline, he is introducing the welcoming philosophy of American style to Parisian style. The collection featured classic outerwear, natural accessories, and elegant scarves draped on handbags – all the motifs of Parisian elegance – designed with sunny colors, with an upbeat American tone. This is not an exclusive label, or a brand that wants to exclude people,” he commented following the event. The goal is for everyone feels desirable in these clothes. By choosing these pieces, you may not have the wildest design, but you have the perfect garment, and you have the confidence to wear it.”